The last meal in Paris: never happened

This time I’m sure: the restaurant that I intended to go to no longer exists! It has been replaced by another! Sadly, due to my slavish loyalty to my travel guide map, it took me 45 minutes to discover this fact. On a strict schedule for my flight tomorrow, I was unable to venture far afield.

After the travel guide’s recommended cafe turned out to be packed on a Saturday night (go figure, huh), I finally lodged myself at a Japanese restaurant.

Run by Chinese. Sigh. I should’ve followed the example of the Japanese tour groups to another restaurant I had marked.

Still, food is food, especially in my hungry state!

Sacre Coeur

It being such a nice day, and my body seemingly recovered over that last two days of low key activity, I continued my journey in 9eme to Sacre Coeur.

Sitting in the pews now, I’m glad I had the opportunity to see it. It’s too bad that photography inside is not permitted. I think Sacre Coeur is better looking, outside and inside, than Notre Dame.

The field of view from any of the pews is awesome. Two rows of enormous pillars gracefully curve into the neck craning ceiling. The main stage and altar is simply organized at first glance; the smaller details carved into everything make it fascinating. The mosaic above the altar covers the entire back dome of the ceiling. The centre dome reaches higher than one can see, except when directly underneath, and filters the daylight through many stained glass windows.

The recurring pattern here is the archway: straight edges that flow into curves as your eye follows upwards, meeting in the centre. The pattern is present in the stained glass windows, the pillars that support the domed roof, the doorways, the alcoves, and even smaller arches behind the altar and engraved into the walls.

I’ll spend a few more moments here before moving on, to better record the image in my mind.

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No Stress Cafe

North of Opera Garnier closer to the centre of 9eme, is the delightful No Stress Cafe. I hesitated at an establishment in France where the wok stir fry is recommended… But who am I to second guess my travel book’s recommendations? Especially a travel book with a Chinese co-authour.

I’m glad, almost elated, that I walked in. The wait staff are handsome and “cool” as the book described, and English was not a problem. One even offered to translate the menu for me, a first in Paris. The music is urban hip (like Gap, but less cheesy).

The bread is the best I’ve had. I’m plotting ways I can sneak the entire basket out with me. The crust of the baguette segment is crispy and flaky, the centre soft, speckled with seeds of some kind. Unlike much of the other bread I’ve had to use force to tear into and washed down with water, every bite of this is a treat.

The duck and sesame stir fry is enormous, and packed: perfectly al dente noodles, onions, bean sprouts, carrots, cucumbers, white mushrooms, wood fungus, coriander, cabbage, celery, and of course, duck and sesame seeds. I can’t remember the last time I had a stirfry so good!

I don’t think I can fit dessert!!!

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