Posted by GJ on January 6, 2007
I went back and added pictures to my blog entries while I was in Paris. I think the pictures make the story more interesting and relevant.
Now that I’ve switched to new software for my blog, I can collect related stories into groups. All my Paris entries are now available as Paris2006.
It was a nice trip, I greatly appreciated seeing the Louve and Sacre Coeur, and other such grand buildings. The architecture was really nice. If there’s a next time, I’ll have to do better on the food front; I mostly went to the wrong places. I’ll also have to budget more next time, living in Europe as a tourist is expensive!
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Posted by GJ on December 10, 2006
I’m on the RER train to the Charles de Gaulle airport now, and a lady witha stereo and a mic on a mini-cart came in and started serenading us with music and song. She then asked for donations after a few songs. Talk about a captive audience!
She’s not bad, although I’m too close to the speaker for comfort.
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Posted by GJ on December 9, 2006
This time I’m sure: the restaurant that I intended to go to no longer exists! It has been replaced by another! Sadly, due to my slavish loyalty to my travel guide map, it took me 45 minutes to discover this fact. On a strict schedule for my flight tomorrow, I was unable to venture far afield.
After the travel guide’s recommended cafe turned out to be packed on a Saturday night (go figure, huh), I finally lodged myself at a Japanese restaurant.
Run by Chinese. Sigh. I should’ve followed the example of the Japanese tour groups to another restaurant I had marked.
Still, food is food, especially in my hungry state!
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Posted by GJ on December 9, 2006
It being such a nice day, and my body seemingly recovered over that last two days of low key activity, I continued my journey in 9eme to Sacre Coeur.
Sitting in the pews now, I’m glad I had the opportunity to see it. It’s too bad that photography inside is not permitted. I think Sacre Coeur is better looking, outside and inside, than Notre Dame.
The field of view from any of the pews is awesome. Two rows of enormous pillars gracefully curve into the neck craning ceiling. The main stage and altar is simply organized at first glance; the smaller details carved into everything make it fascinating. The mosaic above the altar covers the entire back dome of the ceiling. The centre dome reaches higher than one can see, except when directly underneath, and filters the daylight through many stained glass windows.
The recurring pattern here is the archway: straight edges that flow into curves as your eye follows upwards, meeting in the centre. The pattern is present in the stained glass windows, the pillars that support the domed roof, the doorways, the alcoves, and even smaller arches behind the altar and engraved into the walls.
I’ll spend a few more moments here before moving on, to better record the image in my mind.

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Posted by GJ on December 9, 2006
North of Opera Garnier closer to the centre of 9eme, is the delightful No Stress Cafe. I hesitated at an establishment in France where the wok stir fry is recommended… But who am I to second guess my travel book’s recommendations? Especially a travel book with a Chinese co-authour.
I’m glad, almost elated, that I walked in. The wait staff are handsome and “cool” as the book described, and English was not a problem. One even offered to translate the menu for me, a first in Paris. The music is urban hip (like Gap, but less cheesy).
The bread is the best I’ve had. I’m plotting ways I can sneak the entire basket out with me. The crust of the baguette segment is crispy and flaky, the centre soft, speckled with seeds of some kind. Unlike much of the other bread I’ve had to use force to tear into and washed down with water, every bite of this is a treat.
The duck and sesame stir fry is enormous, and packed: perfectly al dente noodles, onions, bean sprouts, carrots, cucumbers, white mushrooms, wood fungus, coriander, cabbage, celery, and of course, duck and sesame seeds. I can’t remember the last time I had a stirfry so good!
I don’t think I can fit dessert!!!

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Posted by GJ on December 9, 2006
Opera Garnier is very impressive. Good pictures were difficult in the low light and crowds, but there was definitely a graceful elegance in the high, sweeping arches, the reliefs carved into the stone, and the ceiling artwork.

I seem to have a problem with authority figures. While sitting on the floor of one of the halls, I was approached by staff. I thought this would be a loitering issue again, as I had been seated there for some time experimenting with taking mirror pictures.
Instead, I was told emphatically in broken english and gesturing that tripods were not permitted. Confused, I acquiesced, though I asked “Pourquoi?” Naturally, I didn’t understand the French answer as he walked away, though I caught somethinh about “all” and “in Paris”.
Google turned an explanation. As best I could piece together, tripods are associated with professional photographer, who need a license to photograph many of the works in Paris that are under copyright. There appears to be some disagreement about what is “public” and what needs a permit… I gather this is a subtle issue sometimes misinterpreted by overzealous staff and police?
At any rate, I finished my tour, still snapping pictures, and discretely using my tripod to brace against walls when I had to. Upon exit, I discovered the day had warmed considerably, and continued my travels in Paris.

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Posted by GJ on December 9, 2006
Today is my last full day in Paris, and I’ve been blessed with the brightest, bluest day so far (albeit the coldest).
After a brioche sucre, I find myself standing in line to see the Opera Garnier. This will probably be the last landmark for the trip. Sacre Couer, Arc de Triompe, and others will have to wait my next visit - which will hopefully be warmer.

My tasks today are to find two good restaurants, for lunch and dinner, and to find any last gifts that I need. Regrettably, I forgot to do Internet research this morning, but hopefully my guidebook will come through for me.
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Posted by GJ on December 8, 2006
Shocking to many I’m sure, but this stay in Paris has been about 2 days too long. Assuredly, some of that is due to underestimating the budget I would want in such a gastronomical and shopping mecca, as well as the extensive amount of walking and stair-climbing I’ve done in the last 7 days.
Thus it is that I find myself at Chez Clement, just outside of Opera Garnier, delaying over my dessert to rest my weary thighs.
I ordered perhaps unwisely, basing my choice on the hunger of first meal of the day (at 3pm). The crab raviolini was notable only because of its mushroom sauce, which I would have preferred stronger (I love mushrooms). The crab was undetectable, and the pasta overdone (I prefer al dente). The sirloin steak was reasonable, if small, and served with fries.

The most interesting part, dessert, made for the 3rd creme brulee I’ve had in Paris. The caramel is thin and delicate, and the custard less sweet than I’ve had elsewhere. Oddly enough, the custard also has a noticeable variable texture - as if it was just shy of a smooth puree. I wonder if that means it was whisked by hand? Or perhaps made earlier today, the custard was surprisingly cool.

The horror! Seeing me type, the waiter thought I was done with my half complete dessert! A most emphatic ‘non!’ was in order!
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Posted by GJ on December 8, 2006
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Posted by GJ on December 8, 2006
Last couple days have been quiet, reminiscent of the first two. I think the accumulated workout walking for so many days is taking its toll.
I spent a few hours yesterday reviewing and editing the pictures I’ve taken so far. They’re up on flickr: http://flickr.com/photos/relgar. I’ll update the past blog entries later.
After visiting l’Opera Garnier to discover the auditorium is closed for rehearsals, I bummed around the neighbourhood, hoping I could wait out the rehearsal.
I visited la Maison du Chocolat (House of Chocolate) - I can think of a few people who would appreciate that place!

I’m currently in Au Printemps: truly a department store among department stores. I’m waiting out the rain, on the 2nd floor of jewelry. It’s impressive: Tiffanys, Cartier, de Beers… With some of their best and prettiest. I’m lounging about in Boucheron’s oh-so comfy chairs. I wonder if they’ll kick me out?

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