Sacre Coeur

It being such a nice day, and my body seemingly recovered over that last two days of low key activity, I continued my journey in 9eme to Sacre Coeur.

Sitting in the pews now, I’m glad I had the opportunity to see it. It’s too bad that photography inside is not permitted. I think Sacre Coeur is better looking, outside and inside, than Notre Dame.

The field of view from any of the pews is awesome. Two rows of enormous pillars gracefully curve into the neck craning ceiling. The main stage and altar is simply organized at first glance; the smaller details carved into everything make it fascinating. The mosaic above the altar covers the entire back dome of the ceiling. The centre dome reaches higher than one can see, except when directly underneath, and filters the daylight through many stained glass windows.

The recurring pattern here is the archway: straight edges that flow into curves as your eye follows upwards, meeting in the centre. The pattern is present in the stained glass windows, the pillars that support the domed roof, the doorways, the alcoves, and even smaller arches behind the altar and engraved into the walls.

I’ll spend a few more moments here before moving on, to better record the image in my mind.

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No Stress Cafe

North of Opera Garnier closer to the centre of 9eme, is the delightful No Stress Cafe. I hesitated at an establishment in France where the wok stir fry is recommended… But who am I to second guess my travel book’s recommendations? Especially a travel book with a Chinese co-authour.

I’m glad, almost elated, that I walked in. The wait staff are handsome and “cool” as the book described, and English was not a problem. One even offered to translate the menu for me, a first in Paris. The music is urban hip (like Gap, but less cheesy).

The bread is the best I’ve had. I’m plotting ways I can sneak the entire basket out with me. The crust of the baguette segment is crispy and flaky, the centre soft, speckled with seeds of some kind. Unlike much of the other bread I’ve had to use force to tear into and washed down with water, every bite of this is a treat.

The duck and sesame stir fry is enormous, and packed: perfectly al dente noodles, onions, bean sprouts, carrots, cucumbers, white mushrooms, wood fungus, coriander, cabbage, celery, and of course, duck and sesame seeds. I can’t remember the last time I had a stirfry so good!

I don’t think I can fit dessert!!!

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Opera Garnier

Opera Garnier is very impressive. Good pictures were difficult in the low light and crowds, but there was definitely a graceful elegance in the high, sweeping arches, the reliefs carved into the stone, and the ceiling artwork.
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I seem to have a problem with authority figures. While sitting on the floor of one of the halls, I was approached by staff. I thought this would be a loitering issue again, as I had been seated there for some time experimenting with taking mirror pictures.

Instead, I was told emphatically in broken english and gesturing that tripods were not permitted. Confused, I acquiesced, though I asked “Pourquoi?” Naturally, I didn’t understand the French answer as he walked away, though I caught somethinh about “all” and “in Paris”.

Google turned an explanation. As best I could piece together, tripods are associated with professional photographer, who need a license to photograph many of the works in Paris that are under copyright. There appears to be some disagreement about what is “public” and what needs a permit… I gather this is a subtle issue sometimes misinterpreted by overzealous staff and police?

At any rate, I finished my tour, still snapping pictures, and discretely using my tripod to brace against walls when I had to. Upon exit, I discovered the day had warmed considerably, and continued my travels in Paris.

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